Season: July to October
Time: 2 to 4 days
Accommodation: Neil Colgan Hut
Fay trips are a highlight. The views, diversity of the climbing and a night in Canada’s highest building all lead to a memorable experience.
Leaving Moraine Lake, I use either the “Perren route” or the “Scheisser Ledges” to gain access to the hut. The “Perren” approach is the shortest and involves rock scrambling and technical climbing to 5.6 in mountain boots. Local guide Bernie Scheisser pioneered the approach that bears his name and this line involves lots of shortrope terrain. Once at the hut the main objectives are usually the West Ridge or North Face of Mt. Fay. The west ridge starts with a short snow face which turns into easy rock. All the north face routes involve about 6 rope lengths of 60 degree ice climbing. Both options are suitable for intermediate climbers and the north face routes are a particularly good introduction to that style of alpine ice climbing.
We can usually squeeze in a quick ascent of Mt. Little on the day we leave. Other options exist to climb Mts. Babel, Quadra or Allen depending on the length of trip. The views to the north of Mt. Temple are outstanding!