Mt. Temple (3543m) East Ridge

Grade: Strong Intermediate  
Season: July to September  
Time: 1 or 2 days   
Ratio: 1:1  
Accommodation: Bivouac

Mt. Temple is the dominant peak of the Lake Louise group and a fine summit. It was the first “11,000 er” in the Rockies with a recorded ascent. It has often been compared to the Eiger in Switzerland particularly when you see the impressively steep north face.

The east ridge of Temple is a classic and it is huge! Your day starts with a one hour approach and then the business begins. Many hundreds of meters of short roping terrain are blocked by the “Big Step”; the crux of the route involving five or six pitches of 5.6/5.7 climbing with packs and mountain boots. Following that, we navigate the “Black Towers”. After over 15 ascents I don’t think I have gone the same way twice! Once over the summit ice cap we descend the SW ridge. East Ridge trips are always two day bookings; we can bivy on the Big Step or if you are strong enough a one day push.

East Ridge climbs are a logical “next step” for strong intermediate climbers with a few seasons of alpinism under their boots.